Paris …. Pas ce que je pensais

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Several years ago, I took my first (and only) trip to Paris.  My wife (The Kosher Mom) was born in France and it was important to her that we take a trip to introduce me to her family.  Although she and her immediate family (mother, father, brother, sister-in-law, grandmother) made Aliyah, (moved to Israel) she left behind several aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents and friends.  Having never been, and after years of hearing so many great stories about Paris (not the people, the city), I was excited to go.  However, my father-in-law and several other French Jews living here each took me aside to explain a few things to me before I left for “La Ville Lumière”.

First, they told me I needed to remove my kippah (skull cap) from my head while in Paris (and Lyon, The Kosher Mom’s hometown).  Second, I needed to make sure my tsit-tsit (strings/fringes) were securely tucked inside my pants.  Third, try not to look “too Jewish”.  Lastly, if you can avoid it, don’t take the Metro.  After all, I wasn’t arriving as a “normal” tourist, but I was traveling to France as an openly observant Jew.  In other words, a target.

The city was beautiful.  We went to The Eiffel Tower, The Louvre, the famous Champs Elysees and even the Jewish Quarter (where I had the best sushi ever-Sushi West).  I can remember that it rained almost the entire time we were in Paris, but we still managed to see and do so much.  My wife’s family had a small studio apartment that they let us use.  Her family was more than gracious. I got to see what life was like in a real Parisian neighborhood.

All-in-all, I enjoyed Paris, but I had this unsettling feeling throughout my entire visit.  I couldn’t help but feel like I was being watched or had a bullseye on my back. Observant Parisian Jews, for the most part, are hiding their Jewish identity. Synagogues look more like army bases these days rather than places of worship.  Soldiers standing guard, heavily armed, are tasked with protecting the Jews that dare enter the synagogue to pray.  This was such a foreign concept to me, having grown up in very “Jewish” areas of America and eventually moving and living in Israel. It’s no way to live.  Paris was not the romantic city I had thought it to be.

It’s a shame, really, because I truly enjoy French culture.  I have embraced and learned the language, love the cuisine and have even come to love the people.

I extend my deepest sympathy and sincerest condolences to all those that have been affected by the latest Islamic terror attack in Paris.  I am confident that Paris will overcome this latest in a line of tragic events and will grow stronger, more secure and less tolerant of a group of people that aim to destroy not only their beautiful city, but their way of life.

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